How to Paint a Floor Stencil
- Floor stencil
- Repositionable spray adhesive
- I used leftover Behr Ultra Pure White wall paint.
- Stenciling sponge
- Measuring tape
- Optional: use a chalk line to make quick work of measuring out the pattern.
- Polyurethane sealer
- Foam roller
- Paint tray
If you are making your own floor stencil, cut out the stencil with your Silhouette onto thin a plastic sheet (I like this one). Use the following settings: Blade 10, Speed 3, Thickness 33, Double Cut On. The plastic can be harder to cut if your blade is dull. If the plastic is not cut completely through after the first try, send the design to the Silhouette again before unloading the cutting mat and it will cut a second time in the exact same spot to create a clean cut.
Before painting, you need to clean the floor well. I used a bucket of hot water with dish soap and a microfiber rag. The microfiber is great for not leaving lint on the surface. Let it dry.
Plan out where you want the stencil to start in your room. I used a chalk line to draw a center line down the center of the room where the stencils would start. I also drew a line one stencil away from the front of the room to help me stay straight.
Spray the back of the stencil with repositionable spray adhesive and then lay it down on the floor lined up with the chalk lines.
Add paint to your tray and then using a foam sponge, dip it into the paint and wipe the excess off. Then stipple it onto the open spots of the stencil to paint it. I love this new sponge I bought for the floor. It made quick work of the painting process, gave me consistent coverage and held up great to lots of stippling (still looks like new after finishing the entire floor).
Once the paint is applied, carefully lift off the stencil and reposition in a new area. For this tile pattern, the tile needs to be rotated 1/4 turn also. I like to jump around so the edges of the stencil are not laying over a freshly painted area. This prevents the underside of the stencil from getting paint on it and smearing the already painted areas.
Continue this process of painting and moving and painting and moving until the entire floor is done. I washed off the stencil and sponge about every 10 tiles to keep the paint from building up on it. Also, after washing it off, I added more spray adhesive to the back to help it stick to the floor.
You can see I didn’t finish the stencil all the way into the back because it will be totally hidden by the new laundry basket shelf and washer & dryer. But for the small sections of the stencil on the edges, I cut the stencil after the center was all done. Used a bit of painters tape to secure the cut edge.
Let the paint dry overnight, then it’s time to seal it. I used 4 coats of polyurethane to cover the entire floor. I was worried that the expensive polyurethane would break my budget, but I was able to add 4 coats to the entire floor with only 1 quart of sealer. Use a foam roller and start in the back of the room, quickly roll a layer of polyurethane over the entire floor. Make sure not to let the edges of the dry (luckily this small floor was easy and quick to do).
Let the sealer dry for about 2-3 hours and then reapply. The polyurethane I bought says if you apply the next coat within 4 hours, there is no need to sand between coats (bonus)! So I made sure to get all 4 coats done in one day.
The hardest part is letting the polyurethane cure for 72 hours before putting things back on the floor. You can walk on it after a day, but I waited the full 72 hours before putting the heavy washer and dryer on it. I was terrified it would scratch the floor, but even sliding the heavy appliances over it to put them back, it looks perfect!
Now we are ready to continue the rest of the makeover. Don’t forget to check out the complete $100 laundry room makeover plan.