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Modern Firewood Holder Build Plans

Store your firewood next to your fireplace with this easy to build rack.

With the cold weather comes my favorite part of winter… sitting by a roaring wood fire!

But I do not like running outside to gather the firewood. Or having a sloppy pile of wood on my fireplace hearth.

So I took an afternoon to create this gorgeous firewood holder. It is small enough to tuck away next to your fireplace, but large enough to store enough wood for quite a few roaring fires.

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And it is an easy build needing a limited amount of tools. Have some fun and make the perfect firewood storage at the same time.

Black house shaped log holder next to a fireplace with firewood in it.

House Shaped Log Holder

My favorite part of this firewood holder is the house shaped peak on top. It makes a boring log holder into something beautiful.

And you may be thinking, those angles look complicated or hard… but they are not! The simple house peak is made with standard 45 and 22 1/2 degree angles.

If you do not have a miter saw, you could cut these standard angles with a miter box and saw. And since the frame is made from 1×2 boards, it is easy to cut these by hand that way.

So whether you are a seasoned woodworker, or someone who is just getting started, this could be a fun project that will be very useful this winter.

Modern firewood storage with a peaked top like a house full of logs.

How to Build a Firewood Rack

Tools needed:


  • Wood products
    • (2) 1×2 boards, 8′ long
    • (1) 3/4″ thick plywood, 14″ x 18″
    • (1) 1″ dowel, 4′ long
  • 1/4″ x 1 1/2″ wood dowel pins
  • Wood glue
  • Blue painters tape

Overall Dimensions:

The firewood holder is 29″ tall by 18″ wide and 15 1/2″ deep.

There is a 15″ wide by 15 1/2″ deep by 17″ tall area to hold firewood before the house shaped peak on top. Perfect for holding a couple days worth of wood next to your fireplace.

3D sketch of the house shaped log storage with dimensions noted on it.

STEP 1- Build the frame

Cut four pieces of 1×2 at 20″ long with a 22 1/2 degree angle on one end. These will be the legs.

Then cut four pieces of 1×2 at 12 3/4″ long with a 45 degree angle on one end and a 22 1/2 degree angle on the other. These will create the roof.

1x2 boards cut with angles on the ends sitting on a workbench.

The entire firewood holder is put together with dowel pins. The dowels are necessary for holding the frame together so you do not have screws in the way of the holes used to attach the large dowels later.

To add a dowel to a mitered corner, line the two pieces up. Then draw 2 lines across where the boards meet. These will be the center point of your dowel pins.

Make sure the lines where you want your dowel pins to go is not too close to the edge. You need to have at least 1″ on either side of the joint to hold your dowel.

Then line your dowel jig up with the 1/4″ drill guide.

Two boards with 45 degree angles held together and marked for dowels then in a self centering dowel jig.

Drill a 3/4″ deep hole into the wood (that will allow half of the 1 1/2″ long dowel to go into it).

Repeat for the other lines on both boards.

Dry fit the dowels before glueing them in to make sure your holes are properly spaced deep enough. Use a pair of pliers to pull out tight fitting dowels so you can glue them in after a successful dry fit.

Add wood glue to the holes and the joint on one board. Press the dowels into the holes.

Then add glue to the holes on the other board and press the dowels into them to join the two boards together.

Two holes drilled in the angled board with wood dowels inserted in them.

Since this is a tough angle to clamp, use some blue painters tape to hold the boards tight while the glue dries.

Repeat for the other two pieces so you have two assembled roof tops.

Taping the two boards together to clamp them while the glue dries.

Then repeat the process on the leg pieces to attach them to the sides of the roofs. These corners will be on the 22 1/2 degree angle cuts.

Let the glue dry on all the corners, then remove the painters tape. Sand the assembled frame pieces smooth.

STEP 2- Drill holes in the frame

Measure up from the legs on the inside 11 1/2″ and the center of the 1×2. Also measure the center of the seam on the top roof peak.

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Drill a 1/2″ deep 1″ wide hole at each of these points.

Use a forstner bit to drill your holes so the end of the hole is flat. This will make it easier to glue the dowels into them later.

Drilling a hole in a 1x2 board on a drill press with a forstner bit.

You can use a drill press or drill guide to keep your drill bit perpendicular to the board.

Repeat for the other assembled frame piece so they are identical.

The front and back of the firewood holder with holes drilled for the dowels sitting on a workbench.

On the inside (the side with the holes already), mark out where you will be attaching the plywood base.

I measured 1 3/8″ up from the bottom so that the plywood was 1″ off the floor and 1/2″ in from each side (so 1/2″ between the two marks).

Then mark the top of the plywood 1/2″ in from the edge and 1″ in from the edge (so there is 1/2″ in between the two marks like on the frame).

These marks will be the center of your dowel pin holes.

Marking holes on the front/back and plywood base for the dowels.

With your doweling jig, drill a 1″ deep hole in edge of the plywood at these two marks.

With your drill press or drill guide, drill a 1/2″ deep hole at the marks on the frame.

Repeat for both sides of the plywood and both frame pieces.

Two small holes drilled in the 1x2 frames with the plywood base sitting by it.

STEP 3- Attach the two frame pieces together

Glue the dowels into the plywood the same as you did for the frame.

Then press it firmly onto the frame piece to secure. Clamp it together.

Attaching the plywood to the frame with wood dowel pins.

Cut three 15″ pieces from your dowel.

Add glue to the inside of the larger holes and press your dowels into them. They should fit tightly so you may need to tap them in with a hammer.

Use a scrap piece of wood between your hammer and your dowel when tapping the dowels into the holes to prevent the dowel from damage.

Glueing the large dowels into the drilled holes in the frame.

Then add glue to the holes on the other frame and place it on top.

Maneuver all the dowels and dowel pins into their holes. Use your hammer (with scrap wood) to tap things fully into the holes.

Clamp everything tight while the glue dries.

Attaching the second frame piece and clamping it together.

STEP 4- Sand and finish

Use a chisel to remove any glue squeeze out. Then sand your log holder smooth.

Stain or paint it the color you want. I used True Black by Minwax for a nice deep black stain color.

Seal the wood as desired.

Finished firewood holder stained with black stain.

Now you are ready to load up your new firewood rack with logs for the fire.

The logs never looked so good sitting next to the hearth. Or if you have a larger hearth or if it’s flush with the floor like in our tiled fireplace hearth in the last house, you can place the log holder right on it.

This is the perfect accessory to the fireplace this winter. Now I can keep enough wood in the house to stay warm on those cold days.

Fireplace hearth made from stones with a black modern firewood rack next to it.

Enjoy your warm fires!

-Kati with picture of blog author Kati


Sunday 20th of November 2022

I would like to know how to cut 22 1/2 angles without a miter saw. What tool do you use to get that angle. My miter saw is out of commission, but I do have a miter box. Thank you in advance.

Kati Farrer

Friday 25th of November 2022

Use a speed square to draw the line for the 22 1/2 angle, then the miter box should work or you can use a jig saw

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