Easy DIY Chunky Side Table

Build a simple side table with these easy plans.

Side tables, or end tables as some people may call them, are super useful. But more importantly, really fun to build!

They are a small and easy project, perfect for a beginner who wants to try their hand at building their own furniture. But also fun for a seasoned DIYer to build a simple, yet beautiful, project in an afternoon.

And I partnered with Kreg Tools to make these chunky side tables an even simpler build using pocket holes.

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Slim side table with arch on the front next to a blue sofa.

End Table from 2x Boards

One of my favorite things about this side table is that I built it from inexpensive 2x boards.

Just one 2×4, 2×6 and 2×2 board is all that is needed. And you will have lots of left over for another project, or to start on a second side table.

Simple side table with chunky legs and flat top and arch in between front legs.

I did use a planer to remove the curved edge of my 2x boards.

This made my boards closer to 1 3/8″ thick instead of the standard 1 1/2″. But did not affect the build.

This is not necessary and the slight divot in between the boards can give your table a beautiful rustic look.

End table built from 2x boards with a washed or bleached wood look.

More Side Tables to Build

Can’t get enough end tables? Check out these other plans to build for your home.

DIY side table with wheels and metal frame next to a chair. — Simple DIY Side Table with Wheels

DIY umbrella side table with black and white striped umbrella in it and outdoor chair with cushions next to it looking over a lake. — DIY Umbrella Side Table

Three tier rolling storage cart made from wood. — Easy Wood Rolling Cart Build Plans

DIY nightstand with one large drawer on top and open shelf on bottom stained a medium brown. — Classic 1 Drawer Nightstand with Shelf Plans

How to Build a Rustic End Table

Tools & Materials

Recommended Tools:

Miter saw
- I recently upgraded to this larger sliding miter saw (watch for it to go on sale), but all my projects before were built with this inexpensive miter saw that I loved.
Jig saw
Pocket hole jig
- I use the Kreg 720 since I do a lot of builds, but their less expensive 520 jig or 320 jig are great jigs for beginners or small spaces (and I use them in my shop too).
Drill
Impact driver (optional, but I love not having to switch bits with the drill)
Multi-mark measuring tool
90 degree drill adapter
Right angle clamp
Face clamps
Sander

Supplies:

Wood products
- (1) 2×4 board, 8′ long
- (1) 2×6 board, 6′ long
- (1) 2×2 board, 3′ long
2 1/2″ pocket hole screws
Wood glue

Overall Dimensions

This finished end table is 14″ wide x 24″ deep and 22″ tall.

3D Sketch of the chunky side table with dimensions noted.

Cut List

Cut out the pieces according to the cut list in the PDF plans on KregTool.com.

EXPERT TIP:
Before cutting the arched end boards, press the two top center boards together and double check your measurement. Adjust your length for the arched end to match the actual measurement.

STEP 1- Cut arches

Draw a line across the center of the arched end boards. Draw an arch in the lower half of the boards that goes from one side to the other and touches the center line.

I used a string tied to a pencil to sketch out my arch.

Drawing an arch with a pencil tied to a string.

Cut the arch out of the board with a jig saw.

STEP 2- Assemble sides

Set your Kreg pocket hole jig to drill holes in 1 1/2″ thick material.

Drill 2 pocket holes on the ends of the arched boards in the top half.

Drilling pocket holes in the arched boards.

Attach the arched boards between two leg boards so they are flush to the top and the front edge of the boards. Secure with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Repeat for the second side.

Attaching the arched board between the legs.

STEP 3- Assemble top

Before cutting the top edge boards, place one of the cut top center boards in between the two legs and clamp firmly together. Measure the area between the legs and cut your 2×2 top edge boards to that measurement.

With your pocket hole jig still set for 1 1/2″ thick material, drill pocket holes in the top boards according to the diagram in the plans.

Carefully measure where the edge board will go so it fits nicely in place.

Measuring where the outside board will attach.

Add glue to the seams and attach the boards so they are flat to the top/bottom.

Use project clamps to keep them flat as you secure with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Attaching the top boards together with pocket holes.

STEP 4- Attach top

Drill pocket holes set for 1 1/2″ thick lumber in the center edge of all the top boards.

Drilling pocket holes into the ends of the assembled top.

Place the top between the legs. Make sure it is flush with the top of the legs/arched boards.

Secure with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws through all the white pocket hole positions from Step 3.

If the legs are too tight to get the top inside, use a clamp as a spreader to carefully open the legs so you can slide the top in place.

Using a clamp as a spreader to make room for the assembled top.

STEP 5- Finish

You did it!

Now all that is left is to sand and finish your new side table!

I stained my table with 2 different stains to get the look I was going for. I started with a coat of Chestnut stain by Minwax, then finished it with a coat of Antique White stain by Varathane.

I love the warm understated color.

Chunky side table with only a top shelf and open below.

Now you can enjoy your beautiful end table.

Happy building!

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