Classic Tall Dresser Build Plans

Build a tall dresser with 7 drawers with this easy tutorial.

If you don’t have a lot of room but need a lot of storage, you will love this tall DIY dresser. The dresser is only 38″, but stands taller than a wide dresser.

It has 4 small drawers on top, perfect for smaller clothing items. And 3 giant drawers on the bottom. The extra height means you can store even more in a small space.

This tall 7 drawer dresser is part of a coordinating bedroom set. I shared the matching 6 drawer dresser plans, 4 drawer dresser plans and 1 drawer nightstand plans already. Coming soon is a 3 drawer nightstand to finish off the set.

PB Farmhouse Dresser Dupe

This 7 drawer dresser was inspired by the tall dresser in the Farmhouse series by Pottery Barn. The entire Classic dresser series has the high-end look without the high price.

My favorite part of this dresser set was that I bought all the wood needed for 3 dressers and 1 nightstand for less than the cost of one dresser from Pottery Barn.

And I was able to make them out of any wood that I wanted. A truly custom dresser.

I love the look of the alder wood I used to build all 3 of the dressers in the set. The alder is naturally warm and has a similar color to cherry but is less expensive.

And I love the knots you get in the alder wood. They add character to the simple design of the dresser.

Then to finish off the dresser, I used 1/2″ baltic birch plywood to make all those drawers. You can get all the pieces needed for 7 drawers from one 4×8 sheet.

Matching Dresser Set

Love this dresser? You can get a complete dresser set with a 4 drawer dresser, wide 6 drawer dresser, and matching nightstand.

How to Build a Tall 7 Drawer Dresser

Overall Dimensions

The finished dresser is 38″ wide, 20″ deep and 50 3/4″ tall.

There are 4 smaller drawers on top (16″ x 15 1/8″ x 4 3/4″ deep) and 3 large drawers (16″ x 32″ x 8 1/2″ deep) on bottom.

Cut List

Cut out the pieces according to the easy-to-read table and diagrams in the PDF plans.

To break down the plywood, start by ripping it into strips with a RipCut guide. Then cross cut the pieces to their final length.

An easy to follow plywood cut diagram is included in the PDF plans.

Learn all my tips for easily breaking down sheets of plywood with a circular saw here.

For the drawer fronts and top, iron edge banding around the perimeter of the pieces to cover the plywood edge.

I like to attach the edge banding to the sides first, then the top/bottom so that the top of the drawer front is solid when opened.

Also, you can cut the drawer fronts from 1×6 (actually 5 1/2” wide) and 1×10 (actually 9 1/4” wide) boards if you prefer solid wood drawer fronts.

STEP 1- Build the sides

Drill one pocket hole, set for 1 1/2” thick material, in both ends of the 3/4” wide edge of the side trim pieces using your pocket hole jig.

Drill pocket holes set for 3/4” thick plywood in the perimeter in the side panel pieces.

On the top/bottom of the side panel, keep the pocket holes far enough away from the edge to not be in the way of the pocket holes on the side trim pieces. 

Attach the side trim to the top and bottom of the panel so the panel is flush with the back of the trim board.

Secure with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

Attach the side panel to one leg piece with wood glue and screws so it is flush to the top and the panel is flush to the back of the leg.

• Use 2 1/2” long pocket hole screws to secure the trim pieces to the leg. 
• Use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws to attach the panel to the leg. 

Attach the third side trim piece to the bottom of the leg so it is 1 1/2” up from the bottom of the leg and centered on the leg (3/8” in from the front and back).

Make sure the pocket hole is on the underside so it is hidden. Secure with glue and 2 1/2” pocket hole screws.  

Then attach the second leg to the other side in the same way.

Then repeat for a second side.

STEP 2- Build the front frame

Drill pocket holes set for 3/4” thick material in each end of the front and back trim, dividers and center pieces.

Attach the center dividers between three trim pieces so they are centered. This is the frame around the smaller upper drawers.

Secure the boards with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and wood glue.

EXPERT TIP:
To hide the pocket holes, face the pocket holes in the top trim up so it is hidden under the top and the pocket holes in the bottom trim down so they are toward the floor.

STEP 3- Assemble the dresser frame

Using the pocket holes already drilled in the ends of the front trim pieces, attach the frame between the sides.

The front frame should be set back from the front of the side 1/4” and flush with the top. 

Then attach the remaining three trim pieces according to the spacing in the diagram in the plans. Again, set them back 1/4” from the front of the legs.  

EXPERT TIP:
Use a few scraps of 1/4″ plywood under the front frame to set it back the 1/4″ required.

Secure with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and wood glue. 

Drill pocket holes set for 1 1/2” thick material in both ends of the back pieces and the 3/4” wide edge of the back trim piece.

Attach the back pieces to the sides with 2 1/2” pocket hole screws according to the 3D drawing in the PDF plans.

Attach the back trim between the sides so it is 1 1/2” up from the bottom and centered on the legs (3/8” in from each edge) with the pocket hole on the bottom to keep it hidden.

Secure with wood glue and 2 1/2” pocket hole screws. 

NOTE: The back of the dresser is complete. If you want to add a back to cover it up, you can cut a piece of 1/4” plywood to cover it up but it is not necessary for structure. Also, I prefer to have the open back to prevent things from getting stuck behind drawers. 

Drill pocket holes set for 3/4” thick plywood on the front and back of the center support piece. On the back, only add pocket holes were the plywood connects to the back pieces. 

Center the plywood piece in the center of the dresser and attach with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and wood glue. 

STEP 4- Build drawer boxes

Cut a 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep groove in the inside of the drawer box pieces 1/4″ up from the bottom.

I did this by taking multiple passes with my table saw. You could also use a circular saw or router to add a groove.

You can assemble the drawers with pocket holes or pneumatic staples. If using pocket holes, drill pocket holes set for 1/2″ material in the outside sides of the drawer box front and back pieces (not the same side as the groove).

Build the drawer boxes by securing the side pieces to the front pieces with wood glue and 1″ staples or pocket hole screws.

Make sure the top of all the drawer box pieces is flush. 

Slide the drawer box bottom piece into the groove on the sides and front. Then attach the back piece the same way you did the front to enclose it.

Repeat for all (7) drawer boxes. 

Find tips and additional ways to build drawer boxes here.

I like to round over the inside of the drawer box to remove the sharp edge of the plywood. This step is totally optional, but is easy to do with an basic trim router and a round over bit.

Or you can smooth the inside edge with a sander. 

STEP 5- Install drawers boxes and fronts

Install the drawer boxes using the side drawer slides so the drawer boxes are set back 3/4” from the front of the front frame (1” back from the front of the legs).

The drawer boxes should be 1/4” up from the bottom of the drawer opening, leaving 3/4” clearance on the top. 

Learn how to install drawers with ball bearing slides here.

EXPERT TIP:
Clamp a scrap of 3/4″ plywood on top of the front frame. Make sure it is level and clamp at the back of the dresser. Then set your drawer slides on top of it while you secure them. This will keep your slides level inside the dresser.

Attach the smaller part of the drawer slides to the side of the drawer box.

I spaced them 7/8″ up from the bottom of the box to give me the correct clearance once installed. Make sure to measure and adjust for your specific drawer slides.

Attach the drawer fronts so they sit inside the frame and are flush to the front. There should be a 1/8” gap all the way around the drawer fronts.

Once the drawer front was lined up (use 1/8” spacers or playing cards to get the perfect reveal), I used a brad nailer with 1” nails to temporarily attach the drawer front from the inside of the drawer. 

Or you can use my trick for installing drawer fronts using the drawer pulls.

Then permanently attach the drawers using 1” wood screws from the inside of the drawer. Use (4) screws per drawer, one screw in each corner of the drawer box front.

Add your desired drawer pulls. I used a small 1” black pull on the smaller drawers and a large 5″ drawer pull on the lower drawer fronts.

STEP 6- Attach top and finish

I prefer to attach the top last so that you can easily access the inside of the drawers while installing them. So first, remove all the drawers, make sure to label them. I wrote their location on the back of the drawer box.

Place the top on your work table and then place the dresser frame upside down on top of it. The top should be flush with the back of the dresser frame and hang over the sides and front 1”.

Drill 1/4” deep countersunk holes in the top of the frame. Add 3 holes in the front and 3 in the back.

Attach the top with 1” screws in the holes on the front and 2” long wood screws in the back.

Reinsert your drawers and you are done!

Stain/seal/paint your new tall dresser. I used a matte finish to seal the alder wood without adding any color. I just deepens the color of the natural wood.

You did it!

You are going to love loading up your new dresser with clothes. Hopefully you are as surprised as I was at how much storage space you just gained!

Happy building!